Sunday

Faire la grasse matinée is the French expression for "sleeping in". See linternaute.com for an explanation of this expression and its origins.

Even though the fight for Sunday shopping in Canada happened in my lifetime, I can't remember life before Sunday was just the day before Monday (except, I think, in Newfoundland). Since my second French Sunday, I have grown fond of this day of forced relaxation and mini break from excessive consumerism.

In Lyon, virtually everything is closed Sundays. Sunday is a day when people relax and enjoy leisure activities, along with taking a stroll in the park, seeing friends, or going to the cinema, another favourite Sunday activity is going to the market for fresh, local produce. There is at least one market in every arrondissements.

I came across this helpful little list of all the Sunday markets in this Saturday's Le progrès and felt it useful enough to post:

(Le progrès, samedi le 28 octobre 2006, p 11)
Bon dimanche à tous! Read more...

Wifi in Lyon

The French pronunciation of Wifi sounds like 'weefee'. Hifi, however, is still pronounced like 'highfye'.

The particular thing about Lyon and perhaps France in general is that while Internet is widely used, carrying around your laptop and opening it in a café, or restaurant, or wherever it may be, is not as prevalent as it is in, say, Vancouver.
But sometimes, if you are lucky, you might be able to find an open connection.

I am happy to report that the Lyon 3 (and probably the other campuses) campus is Wifi enabled! But, you need a student number and password to access it.

I located a few sites that listed paying and non-paying wireless hotspots before I came but a few of the non-paying ones were gone or closed down. Bar none, for the technologically mobile (and not totally savvy), the best place for Wifi is almost any McDonald’s. You have unlimited access as long as you buy something. A cheeseburger is 0,95€.

Here are some things that I just found that I haven't read through yet but look interesting:
Windows users you can check the site wireless-lyon to connect to a proxy site. I have a Mac so I didn't bother reading through it.
Also, looks like this organisation Wifi-Lyon has something interesting going on. Worth looking into if just so that you don't leave after an internet session smelling like fry-oil.

On an un-Lyon related note, the restaurant on the ground level at Gare de Lyon in Paris provides free wireless for half an hour. Just sit on one of the benches near it.
In 2006, the mairie of Paris embarked on an ambitious project to make Paris wifi-enabled, including cutting taxes for companies that install fibre-optic cables, and allowing internet service providers to install antennae on strategic public locales. Currently, all public spaces in Paris are said to be Wifi enabled, i.e. parks, museums. To find open connection sources by arrondissements (district), check this link: Localisation des bornes Wi-Fi from the Mairie de Paris' website.

While I'm at it, here's a link to Londonist's map of Wi-fi hotspots in the eponymous city.
Read more...

Le Petit Paumé

Hi hi! When you are in Lyon, don't forget to get your copy of Le petit paumé. An impressive little student guide to gastronomy and fun, and also includes essentials such as "Ouvert les dimanches" and "Pain-Vin-Fromage".

This guide has been available every October for, apparently, the last 38 years, and is made possible through the volunteer efforts of 23 students from l'École de Management de Lyon and ad funding.

This year's petit paumé is 432 colour pages (500 g) of conversational-style advice on cheap eats, good eats, clubs, bars, banking, health, internet cafes, printing shops... Basically all things that are indispensable to a student's life. Read more...

Mussels/Moules/Musselens in Brussels/Bruxelles

Christine tells me that they say à tantôt! in Belgium for "see you soon!"

Taking a break in Brussels right now for a weekend visit to one of my favourite persons in the whole world, Christine.
Brussels is approximately 3.5 hours away from Lyon by direct train, and approximately 6 hours if you take the TGV into Paris and then catch a Thalys train into Brussels (the lengthier trip is slightly cheaper).

I've been told that travelling around Belgium is quite cheap and definitely more so than around France. I have little experience with this, but a trip from Brussels to Antwerp (a 1.5 hour journey) was about 6€ - return, and I do know that travelling from one cool city to another cool city in France is at least four times that.
From what I've noticed, Brussels also seems to be a centrepoint for travel and connected to many destinations by land and air.

Things that you must try in Belgium that are not overrated:
The fries, with one of those mayo dips. There's something about the mayonnaise dip that's not gross but a bit sweet and damned delicious!

Waffles. Crispy, fluffy, and warm sweetness... Waffles with nutella... Waffles with strawberries and cream... Waffles with ice cream... My sliced banana/chocolate waffle was so good, I could have made out with the guy that sold it to me.

Moules-frites. We ate a bucket of mussels, cooked in white wine, with a side of fries and mayo dip. However, if you hate mussels, this won't be any good at all.

Beer. Christine brought me to a bar in Brussels called Delirium that had over a thousand variety of beers. I don't really condone stereotyping based on gender but occasionally, coincidences happen. Christine and I happen to be female and we both happen to like flavoured beer. She had coconut flavoured beer that was extremely enjoyable. I had a banana-flavoured beer that was actually good, so not as disgusting as it might seem.

The chocolate. Even the chocolate that you buy at crappy grocery stores in the train station are melty delicious.

Things I learned:
A weekend is way too short a time to spend in Belgium... Everybody will tell you to go to Brugges, sometimes also referred to as "the northern Venice"... Belgium is an officially bilingual country, the two languages being Flemish and French. I've been told that most Flemish speak French and not so much the other way around... I've also been told that people in the Flemish parts don't really appreciate it when you speak French to them... Bruxelles (the French name for Brussels) is pronounced like brue-sell and not bruek-sell... The official type of government is a federal parliamentary representative democracy with a monarchy. But because of the historical problems between the Flemish and the French-speaking communities, along with its membership in the EU, Belgium has a very complex (some say convoluted) number of political institutions with multiple responsiblities... Brussels' red light district is right outside of Brussels Nord train station. Lingerie clad ladies hang out in the storefronts and make sexy faces and gestures so that men will come in... There are three train stations in Brussels - South/Midi/Zuid, Central/Centrale/Centraal, and North/Nord/Noord... I really liked seeing everything in two languages which reminded me of home, except Dutch is way cuter looking than English... Read more...

Class Notes

A VERY SHORT LESSON IN FRENCH STUDENT SHORTHAND:

càd = c'est-à-dire
cô = comme
d/s = dans
e/t = entre
ê = être
qd = quand
Org°, C° = organisation, Constitution (a ° will designate most words ending in "ion". Additionally, sometimes a superscript t will be used to designate most words ending in "ent", and a capital T will designate that the word ends in "té" or something with a similar sound).
tt, ts = tout, tous

Do or die
The system in France is quite different than the Canadian in the fact that 100% for a lot of your courses will be dependent on the exam. There is also rarely ever assigned reading and instead, professors will either pass out bibliographies with dozens (sometimes hundreds) of books none being more recommended than the other. Others will tell you that they built the entire course based on their accumulated knowledge and therefore there is no material available that is particularly related to the class. So try not to take crappy notes. This is why you will soon notice that there is a French style of taking notes, which is furious, complete, and initially incredibly illegible.

Le système D
However, in France, it is very common for French students to share notes. For the most part, a French student will have no qualms to give them to you to photocopy when you ask. French students are also super cool in bringing you up-to-date with what you've missed if you're ever late for class.
Also, I'm not sure if this is the same for all subjects, but the course content for the majority of poli sci courses has been the same for the last three years. A friend of mine was able to forward to me copies of three entire courses at the beginning of the second semester.

Tape Recording
Also for the most part professors are sympathetic to the plight of foreign students and will let you tape record their lectures.
Read more...

La bise

I am still not accustomed to the French greeting of kissing on both cheeks, aka la bise. As a Canadian, I greet with a nice arm’s length (some might say, sanitary) hand gesture that resembles waving, or with some sort of verbal greeting, and perhaps, the most intimate greeting for strangers: the handshake. For the most part (yes, I understand there are always exceptions), hugs and kisses are reserved for family, close friends, and lovers.

Before I came to France, I always thought that la bise was something that you did with many people but that there still required some sort of intimacy or familiarity. However, la bise is a neutral greeting and perhaps the French equivalent of “hey, what’s up” or hand-waving and as Leonore and Melanie both pointed out to me, is really no indication of intimacy or even interest for both parties. Leonore made a joke about how you might give somebody la bise one night and you could very well end up in a situation where if you saw them on the street a few weeks later, you would pretend not to see them and deliberately avoid them. Sometimes you will see guys doing it to guys (I don’t know if there is as much rampant homophobia in French society), and if you find yourself at a party, you are expected to do la bise with each person at the party and who comes to the party.

Apparently, depending on where you find yourself, la bise differs from country to country and region to region. I’ve been told that in Belgium, you kiss most people once on the cheek and three times for your friends. And in some places in Switzerland, three kisses are customary.

My German friend, Ricky, has been able to relate to my problems with la bise and has said that in Germany, greetings are done in pretty much the same way as in Canada. Our shared conundrum was whether or not there was a methodical approach to la bise i.e. with which cheek do you start? We likened it to shaking hands always with the right. This was last Saturday so we still need to figure this one out, maybe by observing French people or asking a French person.

In any case, the two levels of greeting that exist here, i.e. la bise and the option of a verbal greeting, has created a degree of uncertainty for me so that I’m not sure whether or not to take it as a sign if somebody doesn’t do la bise with me when I leave. Also, would they take it as an insult if I don't perform this ritual without offering a cultural justification? Read more...

Student Life: A Relative View

This is my third week of school and today is the second student protest march that I have seen. I live on a pretty busy street and the last time the students stopped and sat in the street for about five minutes, while the cars waited at the green light. The protests have always been accompanied by police cars and police officers on motorbikes.

Student Life in France

Tuition
Coming from Canada, life for students in France is quite nice. The average annual tuition for a French citizen attending a public university is about 200€. I've been told that a lot of people will choose school because it's so cheap and then drop out after deciding it's not for them, without the feeling that they've just blown a whole wad of cash on nothing.

Eating
French university campuses don't have fast-food mini-malls, but most have a university restaurant (or Resto U). For 2,75€ you can get a "three-course" meal: appetizer or salad, main dish and a dessert. The food isn't the greatest but it's about the same as the average price of a ham and butter baguettewich.

Other Perks
Aside from the government rent subsidy, many people are aware that travelling in Europe is especially great for those under twenty-five years old (or over 60) qualifying for many discounts like half-priced train and bus tickets. However, there are many other things available. For example, banks usually have student promotions such as no-fee bank accounts, there is always a student price for movies, and hairdressers also offer 20% discounts on haircuts.


This past summer, while I was preparing for my trip, I met a young Lyonnaise who warned that I will be shocked when I arrive because French universities are nothing like in North America (facility-wise), because school is free for them so they have very bad facilities. Now that I'm here I have noticed that, yes, the campus is probably the size of a large high school and professors do not have office hours - having no office on campus. The facilities are about one fifth (a random pointless fraction) of what they are at UBC yet...

Many French students are supported by their parents while they are studying (others find work that fits into their schedules), yet I don't think the purchasing power of your average French student is any more limited than that of your average Canadian student who didn't "plan ahead", or without parents who can afford to pay for everything. In the end, I envy the French student who won't wake up some nights, covered in sweat, realising that she will still be indebted for thousands years after graduation. Read more...

Seeking Furniture and Furnishings

à l'occasion or d'occasion is how you say 'used' or 'second-hand'. For example, a used car = une voiture d'occasion and used books = livres d'occasions.

Old things:
Troc de l'île is like a European Value Village but I think they only sell furniture and knick knacks.
Dépôt-vente is pretty much like Troc de l'île.

New things:
Ikea (French pronunciation: ee-kay-ah) is located in Lyon's business park area. Take the Tramway T1 direction Saint-Priest/Bel Air and get off at Parc Technologique. Walk back in the opposite direction of the tram you were taking. Ikea will be to your right, you can't miss it.

Carrefour is one of the largest French multinationals. I've heard that there are Carrefours in China. I've been to the location at the Part-Dieu mall and in Vénissieux. You can usually find things like shower curtains and towels quite decently priced. You can also buy groceries, books, electronics, movies... Think of it as French Wal-Mart.

Tati is located near metro stop Cordeliers and where you can find cheap things. However, the price of the things at Tati are reflected in the quality. Bad lighting, bad colours, bad selection. But if cheap is your only thing, Tati's your place. Apparently, you used to be able to buy wedding dresses here. I shudder to think. Kind of like French K-Mart.

BHV is like Home Hardware. Personally, I found things here to be a bit more expensive. Read more...

Hooking up the Internet

The first thing you need to do before getting internet is to get a landline with national former monopoly France telecom*. In France, a landline can be distinguished from a fixed-line (or téléphone fixe) in that the former is very expensive to make calls while the latter can be free. For fixed-lines, most go with either free or tele2, who offer more attractive rates. Keep in mind that even though fixed-lines offer free calling to several countries, calls to mobiles are almost always not free, even if they're French mobiles.
If you have chosen to go with a company other than France telecom's internet service provider, Wanadoo, simply decline any offers because salespeople in France can be especially pushy and France telecom does not offer very good rates to individuals.

Here's a list of broadband providers in France courtesy of Birds-Eye.Net.

*You might need to contact your landlord to get the previous phone number that was attached to the line.

UPDATE: Most Internet services in France are pretty hit-and-miss. It is rare that you will ever get a unanimous recommendation. Recently, some friends have had big-time problems with Free, including my roommate who has just switched to Club Internet. Read more...

Volunteering

L'Abbé Pierre was a Catholic priest, figure of the French resistance, politician, founder of the Emmaüs (see also Emmaus International) and a folk hero in France who died in January 2007. The genesis of the Emmaüs movement is very interesting as is l'Abbé Pierre, so click on any of the links above or visit your local bibliothèque. Briefly: Emmaus is a solidarity movement to fight poverty and homelessness in France and internationally, by creating awareness, providing shelter, and raising funds.

Coluche is a French comedian from the 1970s and 1980s whose main shtick was playing the ignorant racist. While Coluche found fame and riches later in life, he grew up in poverty, and is also known as a great humanitarian in France. Coluche is one of the founders of Les Restos du Coeur and les Enfoirées. Les Restos du Coeur are more than just restaurants, and equally offers a support network for those in need: they provide emergency shelter; back-to-work programs, a movement (see also ccording to their website, les Restos du Coeur have hundreds of gardens all over France, from 50 square metres to 18 hectares that yield enough to feed hundreds of people for 90-100 days at their restaurants; and centres to assist new and expecting moms and their young ones, providing food, diapers, clothing, pediatric consultations, games... to list some of the things they do.

If you have a good command of French - but I'm not sure if this is that important since some organisations look for people able to teach English skills - and are interested in volunteering during your time in Lyon, you might want to get in touch with either of the organisations above. However, if you're looking for something different, click here: Carrefour du bénévolat - Grand Lyon they try to match you up with volunteer positions based on your experience, skills, and interests. Read more...